DIY LED Grow Light
DIY LED Grow Light – A Step by step guide for building and installing your very own grow lights! The 10 steps you can take to build your own DIY LED grow light system.
Step 1. Select and buy
Firstly, you will need to purchase the right DIY LED Grow Light. In this step by step guide, we will discuss an LED light having a size of 2.5” across. With this particular size, you will need at least six units to be mounted. Multiply the total square feet of your garden by 40 to identify the total wattage you may require. Then for a six light system divide that number by 6 to identify the wattage you need for each bulb.
Watts per bulb calculation
- 2’ x 2’ grow closet = 4 square feet.
- 4 sqft x 40 watts per ft = 160 total watts required.
- 160 total watts required / 6 bulbs = 27 watts per bulb.
NOTE: Make sure the lamps have the right spectrum for your plants
Step 2. Choose your housing
Firstly, choose the size of your housing depending on the number of lamps you require and the size of each lamp. For instance, this housing from California’s LMB HEEGER (8” x 5” x 2”) could accommodate 6 LEDs.
That is based on two LED lamps wide 2 x 2.5” = 5 “ wide
Three LED lamps long 3 x 2.5” = 7.5” long
Step 3. Get Light Sockets
There are certainly many socket options. In the figure above, a snap-in style socket made of ceramic is being used. For the hole, the diameter is 1 1/8”.
Step 4. Make your template
You also need a template no matter what type of LED you are using, to make sure you are lining the lamps up correctly in the box.
Step 5. Tape the template to the box and start drilling.
To make sure your lights line up at the end, drill a pilot hole before you drill any large holes in the metal.
Step 6. Make holes in the panel’s rear
You need to have at least three holes in the rear part of your panel. They are for the grounding point, on/off switch, and energy chord.
Step 7. Drill the primary mounting holes
After drilling the rear part, also start drilling the primary mounting holes. As you can notice in the image above, they are perfect circles and arranged correctly because of the template. Also, beginning with the pilot holes aids in having neat result.
Step 8. Mount the light sockets
Now it’s time to mount the light sockets. Due to the flexibility of the aluminum chassis, you can’t directly push the sockets inside. Therefore, put the socket first in the hole and flip the chassis face down on a table top. Finally, push the chassis into the sockets by using a larger screwdriver.
Step 9. Wire the chassis
In the example, a 22 gauge Teflon coated wire is used. The whole fixture only uses 0.4 amps at 120 VAC because in this illustration we are using 6 lamps with 8 LED Watts for a total of only 48 watts. Rated at 5 Amps, a 22 gauge wire is also used in this particular setup.
Step 10. Hang the chassis
Finally, hang the LED chassis and wire it so you can raise and lower the lights to match the growth of your plants. You will also want to keep the LED light source about 24” above your plants as they grow.
Alternatively, you can also buy a ready-made LED grow lamp thanks to our article comparing the top rated LED grow lights.
3 Watt Vs 5 Watt LEDs
3 Watt vs 5 Watt LEDs ?
There are several sizes of LED chips used in the manufacture of LED Grow lights and available for use in DIY LED grow light projects. 3 Watt Vs 5 Watt LEDs. Which is the best size of LED chip light to use for your indoor garden?
While this is a fairly straightforward question there are several things to consider in making the best decision. First, does the chip size matter for light color? Second, how many lumens will each chip deliver and how many does your plant need? And third, what are the cost considerations for each LED chip set size? To answer these questions we need a basic understanding of how LED lights work.
How LEDs Work
The term LED stands for “Light Emitting Diode”. When electrical current runs through the diode in an LED setup, the electrons in the current flow into a semiconductor material containing electron “holes”—spaces waiting for electrons to fill them. When the electrons fill those holes, energy is released as photons or light that is emitted outward, turning the LED into a light source. The primary advantages of this LED setup is thatit generates lightwith less power usage. It also creates less heat, and can develop in the color (spectrum) desired.
3 Watt vs 5 Watt LEDs
3 Watt LEDs
In 2009, many LED grow light manufacturers starting using 3 watt diodes in their grow lights. The 3 watt diode provided the ideal balance of canopy penetration without losing the advantages from low electrical usage and low heat source. With 3 watt diodes, a grow light was able to penetrate up to 5 feet past the plant’s canopy.It was initiallywas the perfect design for the indoor growing market.
5 Watt LEDs
Not long after 3 watt diode lights appeared, several companies started manufacturing and promoting indoor grow lights with 5 watt, 10 watt and even larger diodes. On the surface this seems to be the natural progression for grow light strength. However, LED grow lights with the larger diodes have some significant drawbacks.
Are 5 Watt LEDs really better?
First, as the diode size increases, so did the amount of heat that the diode chip needs to dissipate. Larger wattage diodes need larger heat sinks to dissipate the heat that they give off which results in heavier and bulkier lights.
The second issue is of chip density. Since the 5Watt and 10Watt diodes give off more heat, manufacturers must space them further apart to avoid thermal failure. Therefore, the result is a grow light that is heavier, bulkier and less dense in terms of LED spacing.
Finally, the third drawback of the 5+ watt diodes is their price. Not only do they cost more overall, but they are also more expensive on a $/watt and $/ growing area covered basis. A quick analysis shows that it is not worth paying a premium to have larger diodes in LED grow lights. Consequently, the added penetration is superfluous and unnecessary for indoor growers and it comes at a burdensome cost – increased price and less densely packed network of diodes.
Conclusion
Bigger is not always better. When it comes to the question of 3 watt vs 5 watt diodes for LED grow lights, lights built with the 3 watt diode are still a great choice for any indoor growing project, but 5 watt LEDs are becoming more and more popular as their production cost has decreased.
If you want to build your own DIY LED grow light system, do not miss our step by step guide for building and installing your very own grow lights.
Apollo Horticulture LED Grow Light Review
Apollo Horticulture LED Grow Light Review
The Brand
Apollo Horticulture has been a significant player business for many years, here is our Apollo Horticulture LED Grow Light Review. They currently offer a variety of sizes of HID and LED plant lights. They also have a selection of grow tents in various sizes, and several horticulture accessories.
Apollo entered the grow business with their HID lighting but quickly added LED lighting when it was introduced. They are now a major player in the LED grow light business offering twelve different lights in three different styles. Their UFO or Puck lights have been around for several years and come in 75, 135, and 180 watt versions using 3 watt led chips. The brand of their COB (Chip on Board) lights product line is “Purple Sun”. They use LED chips in reflective cones to maximize the light delivered from each chip. Lastly, these are both tested and proven light models with good spectrum alignment.
Products
Firstly, the new development with Apollo is that they have fairly recently started using the newer 5 watt LED chips in two of their current line of LED panel lights. They still offer the 3 watt chips in their 240 watt, 288 watt, 300 watt panel LED lights. The new version panel lights using 5 watt LED chips also comes in their 400 watt and 700 watt models. These new 5 watt LED Grow lights are a great value. They also deliver the broad spectrum plus IR lighting needed for both the vegetative and flowering growth phases.
In reviewing the Apollo LED plant lights there were two LED Grow lights that particularly caught our attention:
Apollo GL60 180 watt LED Grow Light: This compact UFO style grow light offers great LED lighting for small space of 4-5 Square Feet at a super price of just over $100 and has appeared high on many top LED Grow Light Reviews
Apollo GL80X5LED grow light is their smallest panel light using the 5 wall LED chip at 400 watts. This configuration delivers enough light intensity, measured in lumens, to cover a 3’ x 3’ vegetative grow area and a 2.5’ x 2.5’ flowering grow area, all for about $200 through Amazon.
All Apollo LED grow lights come with an estimated life of 50,000 hours of use and a two year manufacturers guarantee.
90 Watt vs 180 Watt LED Grow Lights
The difference between 90 Watt vs 180 Watt LED Grow Lights
Advanced Platinum P300 – Our Top Pick for 2018!
Firstly, there are multiple configurations and sizes of LED grow lights available on the market. The question that is always asked is what is the right size and model of LED Grow light for your application. Many times the question is how does wattage make a difference. Such as the difference between 90 watt vs 180 watt LED grow lights. The correct answer depends on the size of your grow room and the plants you are growing.
90 Watt LED Grow Light
LED Grow Lights produce about 100 lumens per watt. And your plants will normally need between 1,500 and 3,000 lumens per square foot of plant. The low end of 1,500 is adequate for normal growing plants and the high side of 3,000 lumens is for some types of flowering plants. If you have a plant grow area of about 2.5’ by 2.5’ that would be about 6.25 sq ft of area. It would then require a 90 watt LED Grow light that produces about 9,000 lumens for normal growth.
180 Watt LED Grow Light
That same area of flowering plants discussed above of about 2.5’ x 2.5 ‘ could require up to 180 watts of LED grow lighting. Or 18.000 lumens for the flowering phase of some plants. If you are just dealing with growing non flowering plants then that 180 watt LED Grow light would produce about 18,000 lumens. That would cover a 12 square foot growing area or an area of about 3’ x 4’.
Lastly, the most popular LED grow lights in the 90 – 180 watt size range are the round LED Grow Lights. Commonly referred to as “UFO led lights” or “PUCK led lights” due to their circular construction and 2”-3” thickness.
MARS HYDRO Review II 400 Watt LED Grow Light
MARS Hydro Review (II 400W LED Grow Light)
The Mars Hydro company is an established Chinese company that has been in the LED grow light business as a low cost light provider for several years. They have a number of lights on the market available through several channels. The company has recently launched their new “series II” set of lights.
Mars Hydro II 400 watt LED grow light review
The company built the new series ll lights with several features that make them a significant improvement over the older generation of Mars Hydro reviews.
- First and foremost, they are all built with the new 5 watt LED chips. Which provides a brighter light that delivers significantly deeper lighting penetration.
- These lights deliver full spectrum lighting from 365nm to 750nm and infrared. This covers the important red and blue spectrum and will support the germination, flowering and vegetative plant phases.
- The LED chips are connected in series so that that if a single chip should fail the other chips continue to operate and deliver light. Several of the lights we have reviewed have LED chips wired in series, which means if one chip fails the entire panel can fail.
- While the LED lighting format produces dramatically reduced heat signature over other lighting formats, these 5 watt chips do produce heat that can reduce the chip life and impact on your heat signature. Mars Series II utilizes over-sized, pure aluminum heat sinks. Combined with two double ball bearing fans to remove the excess heat, a great solution.
While the entry cost for LED lighting is higher that some other formats, we believe LED lighting is the clear winner as the best lighting. The canopy penetration and spectrum offered make this format the best available. The the lower heat signature and the lowest operating cost also seal the deal.
Technical specifications:
LED Output Power:80pcs*5watt = 400 watts
Draw Power:170W~200W
Amps:110V/1.8A, 220V/0.88A
Dimension:340 x 340 x 90mm (13.4*13.4*3.5 in)
Voltage:AC85~265V
View Angle of leds:90°/120°
Lifespan:50, 000-100, 000 hours
Coverage:3’x3′ Standard @24inch
Spectrum:430~440nm, 450~475nm 620~630nm, 650~660nm, IR, and white
flower spectrum:red, white and infared
Vege Spectrum:blue and white
Plug Type:AU, USA, Japan, EU, UK, Swiss,etc.
Height: Germination: 24~30inch; Vegetative:18~24inch; Flowering :12~18inch.
Light Spectrum
When comparing grow lighting options there is a lot of information provided that simply does not cover the important characteristics of the equipment. For example, light “watts”: the watts of a light is a measurement of the power consumed. So it does not tell you anything about the quality of the light delivered. However, Watts can be important for determining your future electric bill, your thermal signature and for comparing the relative size of the light. But not for the quality of the lighting delivered. Hence, the two key measurements that matter in comparing the quality of the light delivered are the spectrum that the light includes (ie, the colors the light creates).
Mars Hydro 400 watt LED SPECTRUM : 430~440nm, 450~475nm, 620~630nm, 650~660nm, IR, and white. And the LUMENS (ie intensity of the light hitting the plant) shown on the below chart. As shown the intensity of the light hipping the plant will vary with the distance the light is above the foliage. So make sure you compare LUMENS of two different lights at the same distance.
SUMMARY
The new Mars Hydro review II LED Grow light is a major improvement over their first generation light that are still available on the web. This improvement is primarily a result of switching to the newer 5 watt LED chips. The new lights deliver great spectrum and intensity for the price. The only factor that is not clear yet, due the newness of the product, is the durability and life of the light. However, this should not be a negative due the the extremely long life of all LED chips and the fact that in these lights the chips are in effect wired in series. So ant chip failure will not impact other chips on the same panel. Finally, we hope you found our MARS HYDRO II 400 Watt LED Grow Light review helpful!
Nutrients Needed By Plants
Cannabis in a healthy state thanks to nutrients
Nutrients Needed By Plants; the N+P+K
Humans need nutrients in order to be healthy and productive. Plants are no different, indoor plants in particular need nutrients provided for them to produce their own food and develop well. While we do not want to write a chemical thesis or overwhelm anyone with detailed scientific data, we do want to provide an explanation of the basic chemistry that will help your plants grow and give you enough information to understand and decide on your nutrition plans and approach. If this seems like too much information/detail, then skip to the article “Cannabis Feeding Formula”. And use the formulas presented in that article.
When we discuss nutrients we mean the materials that must be provided to plants for them to thrive, and we are talking about the 16 chemical elements known to be help plants grow. We can categorize them as either mineral nutrients or non-mineral nutrients. There are 3 non-mineral nutrients found in nature, namely hydrogen (H), oxygen (O), and carbon (C). Non-mineral nutrients are important in producing the energy that plants need through photosynthesis.
Mineral Nutrients
The other 13 chemical elements beneficial to plant growth are known as mineral nutrients. There are two types of mineral nutrients: micronutrients and macronutrients. Micronutrients are chemical elements that only need to be absorbed by plants in small quantities in order to encourage plant growth. Organic matter such as bark and fallen leaves are excellent sources of micronutrients. There are 7 known micronutrients in nature. They are boron (B), chloride (Cl), copper (Cu), iron (Fe), Manganese (Mn), molybdenum (Mo), and zinc (Zn).
Macronutrients, on the other hand, are elements that need to be absorbed by plants in larger quantities. In order for them to be beneficial to plant growth. You can divide macronutrients into two groups. The primary nutrients, nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). And the secondary nutrients magnesium (Mg), sulfur (S), and calcium (Ca). Secondary nutrients are commonly found in substantial amounts in soil, as well as in decomposing organic matter.
The Primary Nutrients – Yes, it’s a tomato plant picture, almost identical to cannabis in soil, water, and nutrient requirements
Source: High-hand Nursery
Nitrogen naturally occurs in soil, water, and air. You can also find it in every living organism on the planet, in amino acids that make up proteins, in nucleic acids that build the hereditary materials inside living cells, and in many other organic and inorganic compounds. It is a chemical component of chlorophyll, which is the green pigment responsible for photosynthesis. Nitrogen helps plants grow faster and produce more fruits and seeds. In cannabis cultivation, nitrogen is an important component of many nutrient systems.
Another primary nutrient that is important for plant growth is phosphorus. It is one of the chemical elements that play a major role in the formation of starches and sugars through photosynthesis. It also helps convert solar energy into chemical energy. Commonly absorbed from fertilizers, bone meal, and superphosphates, phosphorus encourages proper maturation, blooming, and root growth. It also helps make plants more resilient to stress. In cannabis plants, high levels of phosphorus assist in the production of buds.
The third primary nutrient is potassium. Absorbed by plants in larger amounts than any other nutrient except nitrogen, potassium is responsible for building protein and distributing water throughout the different parts of the plant. It helps plants develop strong, thick stems, while also increasing their resistance to disease. Too much potassium in marijuana plants, however, results in the leaves exhibiting a yellowish or white streak in between the veins. Conversely, a potassium deficiency can cause your plants to grow smaller leaves with brown or tan edges, develop necrotic spots, and eventually die.
Acidity level of the Soil (pH Level)
Choosing the right type of soil can give you good and greener plants both indoors and outdoors. The availability of nutrients in the soil depends on the soil’s acidity level. Too much pH on your soil can lead to plant poisoning. On the other hand, low pH level serves as a hindrance to the nutrient intake of the plant and will also greatly affect the roots itself, consequently affecting the entire plant.
Maintaining the right pH level in soil is a crucial task, especially for indoor plants. Using potassium nitrate and calcium as fertilizers (when you already have natural alkaline soil) can acidify the soil while materials such as ammonium nitrate and ammonium sulphate push the pH level lower.
Growing Cannabis Indoor with Hydroponic
A common misconception about growing cannabis includes the myth that growing indoors must be associated with a complete hydroponic system: a technique for growing plants without soil. However, this is not always the case. A simple grow light system in a conducive indoor environment is already enough. Simply put, having the best media, nutrients, and grow lights is the key to an effective cannabis development.
Studies and researches on plant metabolism have proven that plants get their nutrients in the form of simple organic ions. The soil is the primary source that delivers water-soluble nutrients which the plants absorb. When using soilless media it is important to deliver the nutrients through the media for the plants to florish. We recommend using a modified “Lucas Formula” mix of the General Hydroponics nutrient system, which is discussed in our article “Cannabis Feeding Formula”.
Soilless Media Options
Soilless Media Options
Soilless media provide the advantages of allowing the grower to prepare a media tailored for their plants and grow room. That soilless media does not come with unknown nutrients and additives, and you can develop a mix with the moisture holding and drainage characteristics that you want. Additionally, and perhaps most important, since there are no nutrients in soilless media you are able to add the nutrients you want at the growth phase appropriate for your plants needs.
There are three main options for soilless media : Coco Coir, L.E.C.A., and perlite. Each have their own advantages and disadvantages.
Coco Coir
With inert characteristics and superior moisture holding ability, coco coir makes a superb soilless medium for growing your hydroponic gardens. Coco coir is robust enough to surpass the lifetime of peat moss up to 300 percent more!
Figure 1. A typical coco coir in a mid-size container.
Coco coir soilless media initially appears as small compressed bricks and expands up to 8 times its original volume once you put water.
Figure 2. Expanded coco coir after adding water.
Composed of millions of little micro-sponges, coco coir comes from the surrounding brown husk of the coconut shell. These micro-sponges are responsible for absorbing and is also capable of holding water up to eight times its own weight!
- Pros: Great hydroponic growing medium due to its excellent water retention and aeration.
- Cons: Doesn’t drain quite well.
Note: Drainage can be improved when it is fused with other soilless media. For instance, you can have 50 percent coco coir and another 50 percent perlite. Another option is to have a bottom layer of perlite and cover with coco coir layer on top.
L.E.C.A
Short for Lightweight Expanded Clay Aggregate, L.E.C.A is another good soilless media for hydroponics gardening due to its porosity and light weight attributes.
Figure 3. A close up look of L.E.C.A
L.E.C.A is produced by applying extreme high temperatures to clay and continuing the application of heat until a puffing sensation similar to popcorn occurs. With balls having a size of about ¼ inch across each, it is a very coarse soilless medium.
Figure 4. L.E.C.A in their respective containers in an indoor garden.
- Pros: They have supreme drainage capabilities; stays put; holds a lot of moisture despite being light; you can re-use it many times after sterilizing.
- Cons: It cannot hold moisture well unlike coco coir.
Note: Fuse them with grow rocks as a solution to moisture problem.
Perlite
The last option on our list is perlite.
Figure 6. Perlites are inert, porous, and also light weight.
Perlite is produced by heating flakes of glass particularly silica and undergo a process with the same concept like popping pop corns. Additionally, perlites are also used in ceiling tiles, insulation, and lightweight mortars & plasters.
As a result, this soilless media is perfect for horticulture, thanks to its small nodules that can deliver outstanding drainage and can hold water well.
Perlites have a good water retention ability and it maintains the plants to have more contact with air, making it ideal for any hydroponic gardens especially for cannabis. Matter of fact, you can develop your very own bucket system for your hydroponic plants with nothing but perlite!
Moreover, you can mix it with other soilless media to further enhance drainage.
Figure 8. Perlites in a large container ready to be used.
- Pros: Light weight, inexpensive, reusable.
- Cons: During the flood cycle, it tends to move or float away, which makes it not suitable to be used unaccompanied for ebb & flow.
Which Among The Three Is The Best Growing Medium?
All the three options are good and you are free to choose which ones suits your preferences best. However, Coco coir provides several advantages over the other two.
Coco does not come from coca plants, but from the husk of coconuts.
Figure 9. A coconut husk.
Here are the benefits of using coconut husk or coco coir as a medium of growing plants.
- It absorbs more water, maintaining wetness.
- The plant’s roots will not rot as they get enough oxygen supply due to its highly porous materials.
- Resistant to fungal and bacterial growth, thanks to its high lignin content.
- Can be used for more than a decade.
- PH levels can be maintained.
- The plant will not be exposed to soil borne pests.
- Coco coir can distribute necessary nutrients equally.
- Reduces garden maintenance.
- Control over plant pests and diseases along with other weed problems.
- Inexpensive and not complicated to set up.
Hydroponic systems.
People who want to grow plants in a different environment, not familiar to the plants, can do so by using hydroponic systems which enables you to grow plants in a very controlled environment.
There are actually six types of hydroponic systems. They are the following:
- Ebb and Flow (Flood & Drain)
- Drip System
- Water Culture
- F.T. (Nutrient Film Technique)
- Wick System
- Aeroponics
The plant generally require three things: oxygen, nutrients, and water/moisture. The six types of hydroponic systems differ on one thing: how they deliver these three elements to the roots of the plant. For more information on hydroponic systems see our hydroponics category of our website.
Picture references:
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How to Clone Weed : Our Step-by-Step Guide
How to clone weed : Our Guide
We believe the best source of plants to grow in your grow room will always be to clone weed from great plants you have grown and know. When you start plants from clones you solve several possible problems before they occur.
Advantages of Cloning
- The new plant will always be a female, so you will not have to waste resources and grow room space growing a male plant that you then need to destroy when it shows its gender
- You will know the likely size and growing characteristics of the plant, it will be the same as the “mother” plant if you treat it the same.
- The quality of the “high” you will get from your crop will be that same as the “mother” plant, if you grow and harvest it the same.
- Because of the ability to control the above variables you will want to get a great “mother” plant and maintain and manage it to be your clone weed source.
Step-by-step Guide : Clone Weed
When you are ready to start the process to clone weed, follow the below steps:
- Disinfect all your tools and clean all the necessary equipment: scissors or razor blades, rooting cubes, hormone, an LED grow light, plastic cups, marker pen, and labels for your clone. Also clean all the surfaces that your clones will come in contact with.
- Choose a mother plant that shows all the attributes that you want to clone. The plant should be four to five weeks old.
- Choose a branch that is both healthy and strong. The size must be in between 1/8 to ¼ inches across its mother stem. Using scissors or a sharp blade, make a cut (45 degrees) across the stem just above the third node down. Note: Try to avoid crushing the stem in this step.
- The lower three leaves must be trimmed off. Ensure that you are able to cut them off at the node.
- Across the leaf, trim the residual leaves in a half horizontal manner, thus preventing them from bottom water and overlying.
- Avoid any embolisms (air bubbles) from getting in the bottom of the stem. Do this by filling one of the plastic cups with 20 percent water and place the cutting there. Note: Each cup can hold up to 10 clones depending on size.
- Use water to soak your medium. After which, create a hole for your cutting. Make sure that it’s large enough. Avoid impurity by using a separate container to hold the rooting hormone.
- Up to the starting node, dip every cutting in the hormone solution. Follow the hormone creator’s instructions if you have any. However, just ensure that the stem has been covered evenly. In a careful manner, insert the cutting into the medium.
- Maintain the moisture at high levels by watering the medium in equal manner. Just water lightly because there are still no roots present in the clone. You can also squeeze the medium to eliminate excess water.
- With every cutting, label it with the date you have done the procedure along with the type of plant.
- For 18-24 hours, place the clones at least 4-6 inches under an LED grow light. You can also use a 2500k CFL bulb and do the same.
- Begin heating your medium using an incandescent bulb or a heat pad put under the cuttings. Desirable results is guaranteed between 75-80 degrees Fahrenheit. Note: a more dynamic root system is produced when the growing medium is warmer compared to room temperature, particularly up to 5 degrees warmer than room temperature.
Picking the Best Grow Tent – LEDPlantLights
Photo Credit: Jonathan Kriz – Best Grow Tent | Flickr
Picking the Best Grow Tent
Growing plants indoors requires plenty of knowledge, patience, and creativity. Not only will you need to find a way to consistently deliver light, water, and nutrients to your plants, you also need to have enough space to allow your plants to grow during every phase of their development. Here is our guide on picking the best grow tent.
Firstly, the typical grow room set up consists of basic elements such as grow lights, growing medium , a water system, and a means to keep the grow area ventilated. Also, the specific equipment that you will need and use depends largely on the number of plants that you want to cultivate and the space available to you.
The Best Size and Shape for your Yields
If you are looking to grow cannabis indoors, the size and shape of your grow room will largely depend on the amount of space that you have available. Obviously, cannabis growers who are cultivating for their personal interest will require a relatively small amount of space for their grow room. If you are hoping for a large yield, especially for commercial purposes, then a few small pots near the window in your bedroom simply won’t cut it, and you will need a much larger grow room area.
Finding the right size and shape for your grow room takes careful planning. You will need to think about the space available to you, the number of plants that you want to cultivate, how you could bring in light, water, and nutrients, and other factors such as whether your setup will be permanent or not and if you will need to expand your operation in the long run. While there are generally no exact dimensions for every specific growing scenario, with sufficient planning you should be able to set up a grow room that effectively meets your needs fairly easily.
Best Grow Tent : Size Factors
One option that you should look into if you are setting up a temporary grow room is to purchase a grow tent. This is especially helpful if you have limited space available, or if you plan to isolate a specific area in your house for growing plants indoors. Grow tents are also ideal if you want a setup that is relatively portable and easily transferable. The big advantage of using grow tents is that they are made to give you the ability to control the plants environment and at the same time isolate the plants from your living area.
Grow tents come in all shapes and sizes. Most models are highly customizable, and some are built sturdily enough to support equipment such as carbon filters, ventilation fans, and LED grow lights. Modern grow tents also come with waterproof flooring, which protects your floor against spills and water damage. Lastly, by using grow tents, you can grow your plants in a controlled environment without having to drill into your walls and ceilings just to mount lighting and ventilation equipment.
Best Grow Tent : Surface Factors
Of course, your yield will also be as limited as the space that you are working with. Some growers have gone so far as to set up multiple grow tents, each equipped with their own cooling systems and LED grow lamps, in order to increase yields and bud production while also keeping the entire setup easy to transport.
There are a lot of options when selecting a grow tent and making the right choice is critical. The factors you need to consider are:
- How much space is available for the grow room? What is the maximum width x length x height that you have to put the room into?
- Does the space have power, water, drainage, and ventilation? Can it be added and will that reduce the space available?
- How big a space is required for the Marijuana hybrid you plan to grow to flower? How big is each plant x how many plants? Will you also be growing a plant to clone that you need to add to the crop size?
- How will the lights be hung and moved up or down in the tents?
- How much space do you need to manage the plants inside the tent? Are you claustrophobic?
Best Grow Tent : Recommendations
Once you have answered the above questions you should be able to decide on the size of tent or tents you want to use. When buying the tents, as with everything else you use in your grow room, buy good products from proven suppliers. There is too much time and money at risk in growing to use cheap products that limit your success. Two great grow room tent suppliers are Apollo and Gorilla. Their grow rooms are reasonably priced and proven and we believe they offer the best grow tents available. Lastly, four of the best grow tents of different sizes that are highly rated, and I specifically recommend are:
Apollo Horticulture 48″ x 48″ x 80″ Mylar Hydroponic Grow Tent for Indoor Plant Growing
- 1 – Apollo Horticulture Grow Tent
- 1 – Removable Mylar Floor Tray; 2 Filter Straps Included
- Size – 48″x48″x80″/ 100% Reflective Tear Proof Mylar
- Heavy Duty Zippers & Double Stitching for Light Protection
- Package Includes: 1 – 48″x48″x80″ Grow Tent / 1 – Instructional Pamphlet
- Best grow tent for small surface
Apollo Horticulture 96″ x 48″ x 80″ Mylar Hydroponic Grow Tent for Indoor Plant Growing
- 1 – Apollo Horticulture Grow Tent
- 1 – Removable Mylar Floor Tray; 2 Filter Straps Included
- Size – 96″x48″x80″ / 100% Reflective Tear Proof Mylar
- Heavy Duty Zippers & Double Stitching for Light Protection
- Package Includes: 1 – 96″x48″x80″ Grow Tent / 1 – Instructional Pamphlet
- Best grow tent for big surfaces
Apollo Horticulture 96″ x 96″ x 80″ Mylar Hydroponic Grow Tent for Indoor Plant Growing
- 1 – Apollo Horticulture Grow Tent
- 1 – Removable Mylar Floor Tray; 2 Filter Straps Included
- Size – 96″x96″x80″/ 100% Reflective Tear Proof Mylar
- Heavy Duty Zippers & Double Stitching for Light Protection
- Package Includes: 1 – 96″x96″x80″ Grow Tent / 1 – Instructional Pamphle
- Best grow tent for big surface
Gorilla Grow Tent – 4 Feet Length x 8 Feet Width (Adjustable Height)
- Features a patent pending adjustable height extension kit that gives you the ability to increase your growing height from 7ft to 8ft or even 9ft tall
- Made with 1680D threaded, reflective fabric, which is up to 3 – 9x denser than any other grow tent
- Frames are up to 2 – 5x stronger than any other grow tent. The poles are 100% metal and each has fasteners that securely lock your structure in place
- Feature the sturdiest and most durable flood pool that will genuinely hold water. The density of the thread makes the entire structure “ripsistent.”
- Another great item from Flora Hydroponics
Plant Light Basics : Our Detailed Guide – LEDPlantLights
Plant Light Basics : Our Detailed Guide
Looking for the right grow lights? If so, you’ve probably read a few articles and gone through several reviews. And now you feel more confused than ever. In this article we try to help simplify your decision. And guide you in deciding on the right light for your project by understanding plant light basics. To do this we will give you some info on your options and then try to give you the best option for the size project you are planning. If you are a bottom line type of person and don’t want to do all the reading. Then know we STRONGLY recommend you use LED grow lights for your plants. And you can pick the right one from the stack rankings on our home page. On the other hand, if you want the info so you can make your own informed decision, read on….
OPTIONS
Plant Light Basics : Fluorescent
Fluorescent was a popular choice for growing plant indoors when they first came out and there are special application florescent bulbs that still give great lighting. However, its short bulb life and limited spectrum for the wattage has resulted in a dramatic decline in florescent except for special blooming applications.
Fluorescents have luminous efficacy that range up to 90 lm/W and have color temperatures ranging from 2,700K to 10,000K, which does not compare well with the other options currently available.
As mentioned earlier, a significant disadvantage of fluorescent that sets it way behind its competitors is a short bulb lifespan, less than 20,000 hours. Also, the light has gone bad before the bulb shows any sign of aging, so often your plants have suffered for weeks before you realize the bulbs are bad. Unless you are inheriting a free, new florescent system, don’t take the chance. Florescent special application bulbs are still used to assist in seedling and blooming and that is the place to apply them.
Plant Light Basics : New CFL
Compact Florescent Lights (CFL) bulbs are the newest florescent bulbs on the market and are smaller and more energy efficient than standard incandescent lights but have the same disadvantaged as a standard florescent light. Another disadvantage of CFL bulbs is they can be easily affected by weather conditions, especially cold seasons, meaning unheated gardens during cold weather may experience dimmer light. Additionally, dimmer switches which can soften and dim lights are not compatible with new CFL bulbs.
Also, new CFLs are not as direct and as strong as conventional fluorescent lights. Lastly, they contain mercury which is toxic for the environment.
Plant Light Basics : Metal Halide
Metal Halides are comparable to the older mercury vapor lamps, but deliver improved color and more visible light per watt. The only difference in the light bulb is it uses additives, particularly metal halide, along with argon and mercury. These particular additives allows the system to emit brighter illumination.
Although metal halide do produce high lumen output and good color rendition, these lamps are only suitable for large establishments (e.g. stadiums, arenas, and convention halls) and are rarely used for indoor gardens. Furthermore, the average life of metal halide lamps are generally shorter than other types of light in the market.
Ultra high wattage lamps range from 15,000 to 20,000 hours of useful light for plants, while lower wattage lamps are only effective for up to 7,500 hours.
Plant Light Basics : Induction/Plasma
Induction or plasma works well for nurturing cannabis because of their great light spectrum. No filaments and electrodes also means a longer life, thus frequent replacement is not needed. Induction/plasma have an amazing lifespan of up to 100,000 hours!
Despite the advantages that induction or plasma may showcase, they still come with disadvantages. Induction lights have poor light penetration into the plant canopy. If you already have MH/HPS setup, it is not advisable to replace it with induction/plasma system.
When it comes to pricing, induction/plasma are more expensive to buy compared to other grow lights. Additionally, typical plasma doesn’t have built-in cooling options making it operate at high heat. This means that you need to separately purchase a cooling system to disperse heat away from the bulbs and the plants and make them cooler.
The high power consumption and the significant heat generated by these systems make them less efficient than Led and a danger from heat for your plants and your security
Plant Light Basics : LED
Above all types of grow lights, LEDs are at this time the best available. They enable you to regulate proper heat and light spectrum to your plants and equally distribute that light to all parts of your plant. Beyond those operating aspects of LED Grow lamps, they are power efficient and low to no maintenance. Here are the top benefits of LED grow lights:
- Energy Efficiency – The biggest edge of LEDs is they run with up to 80 percent less energy compared to standard lighting systems. They only use as little as 2-17 watts of electricity which is the secret behind its amazing efficiency.
- Remarkable Lifetime – A typical LED has a lifespan equivalent to 5.7 years of continuous use! LEDs may be more expensive than competitors in the market but the big savings eventually come in the long run. Imagine 80 percent off in your lighting bills plus 50,000 hours of life span.
- Accurate Wavelengths – To optimize vegetative and flowering responses within your indoor garden. It is important for plants to experience the right spectra. For instance, blue light is responsible for the overall plant strength by promoting shortened intermodal lengths and strong stems. Red light on the other hand stimulates flowering and vegetative growth.
- Flexibility – LED fixtures can be designed or arranged, depending on your own needs, on a number of customizable options for energy savings, spacing factors, and photomorphological responses. Also, fixtures can also be utilized for inter-lighting designs and multilayer vertical systems among the plants.
- More light with less heat – A typical incandescent bulb produces heat up to 85 BTUs per hour. On the other hand, LEDs only produce as little as 3.4 BTUs/hour.
Plant Light Basics : LED Selection Criteria
Want to know the best LED grow lights? Here are the factors that you need to consider in picking the right LED for you.
Plant Light Basics : Space
Size your light system to the space you are lighting!!!! The rule of thumb to use is 20 to 40 watts of LED grow lighting per 1 square foot of plants. It is recommended to have in the range of 20 watts during growth, and at least 40 watts to initiate blooming. As a formula multiply the square footage of your grow space by the recommended bulb strength to decide on the size of your lighting system. For example in a 4’ x 4’ grow room (16 sqft) you should purchase 320 watts of good LED lighting to grow. And have 640 watts to bloom.
16 sqft x 20 watts = 320 total LED lighting watts to grow
16 sqft x 40 watts = 640 total LED lighting watts to bloom.
However, there are additional factors to include specific light spectrum requirement for some plants and for seedling vs grow vs bloom. Also, be aware there are cheap LED lights on the market that do not deliver the light to meet the specifications they claim. So only buy from a reputable, recommended manufacturer
Plant Light Basics : Spectrum
Depending on your plants’ needs, the right spectrum must be achieved. Colors of 3000K and below are known as red or warm colors. While 5000K (and above) colors, also known as blue or cool colors, are the closest thing to natural sunlight.
Red light encourages flowering. On the other hand, blue light promotes vegetative growth.
Figure 1. Relative efficiency of several colors of light during photosynthesis.
(Photo source: here)
Both red and blue spectrum are the primary lighting required to grow most plants. So they are ideal for LED systems.
Plant Light Basics : Cost
LED lights are fairly expensive to purchase. However, due to its long lifespan, efficient power use and low operating cost, and outstanding performance in growing your plants, you can actually save big in the long run.
LED prices seem to vary widely by different brands. It is important to note that while prices are not the sole basis of the quality of the product but it is a general true that “you get what you pay for.” The cost of an inexpensive LED light can be large. As the biggest cost variable in growing plants is that it takes weeks to get your plants. And if your plants do not succeed well the cost is really high!!
Plant Light Basics : Maintenance
Great news, LED doesn’t need extensive maintenance. Matter of fact, it only needs little to no maintenance at all!
Your attention can be directed on how your plants grow with the LED grow light system that you use, rather than repair or environmental maintenance issues that are a big issue for many growers.
OUR SELECTION
Go to our home page for a recommendation of the top ten LED Grow Lights for your size project.
Top Rated 2020 LED Light
